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2015年8月13日(Thursday)

男物 手織夏大島

Filed under:
- masa @ 09時01分18秒

鹿児島の大島紬の名門機屋、中川織物が制作した珍品の手織夏大島です。縦縞柄ですが、良質の駒糸を使用して1尺6分(40cm)巾で手織しました。経緯絣物の女物夏大島は、一機で通年織っていますが、広幅男物は産地にも殆んどありません。手織の着易さは、当然着た者にしかわかりません。織機物とは全くの別物です。織工の手加減だけで、糸のテンションを調節しながら織るので、生地のしなやかさ・柔かさ・張りがあります。夏着物や単衣は裏地を付けない分、肌で感じられるのです。


2014年11月3日(Monday)

カバ革の男物草履

Filed under:
- masa @ 09時09分04秒

貴重な生地や爬虫類の革などで、オリジナル草履の制作をしています。ワシントン条約で、原則輸入が禁止されてるアフリカ象をはじめ、河馬(ヒッポポタマス)や、養殖クロコダイル、オーストリッチなどです。市場の男物草履は特にアイテムが少なく、サイズも合う物が少ないので、探すより制作した方が早くて、安く付く場合もあります。大阪の一流職人の完全手創りなので、丈夫で履きやすいです。この草履は、カバ革で制作した草履です。カバは地球上で象と並んで最強の革で、カバ同志のケンカで表面に傷跡が沢山あります、それが本物の証拠でもあります。 長さ26cm 巾10cm

鼻緒も同じカバ革です。台の横回りは牛革を使用しています。カカト高は全高で3.5cm


2014年11月1日(Saturday)

男の黒紋付着物・羽織と袴

Filed under:
- masa @ 09時51分12秒

男性の第一礼装の黒紋付着物・羽織に袴です。男性は葬儀でも着る事があるので、地方によっては成人時に必ず誂える所もあります。羽二重の少し重目の生地で、着物と羽織、米沢織の縞袴、白の長襦袢などを総誂えて60〜70万ぐらいが相場でした。中には高級物で200万ぐらいの品物もあります。しかし、高級なスーツでもそれくらいの値段のがザラにありますので、紋付・袴が割高とは言えないと思います。男性も和礼装を自前で持ちたいものですね。裄1尺9寸5分まで仕立可の黒紋付対を現品限りの特別価格で出品します。

男物の袴の80%以上が米沢で織られています。黒紋付用縞袴、色物用の紋織り袴、御召用の無地袴など、使用向きも織り方も違う物が数種類あります。これは米沢袴の中で質が良い、神代仙台平の縞袴です。主に黒紋付や準礼装の御召まで穿ける重宝する袴です。一般の方には、このクラスで十分高級感があります。


2014年10月30日(Thursday)

本場大島紬 男物大久保絣

Filed under:
- masa @ 09時23分28秒

本場鹿児島大島紬、男物大久保絣の珍色です。男物の珍絣柄には本亀甲や蚊絣・西郷絣・ツガ十絣・割込絣などありますが、生産は極僅かです。普通亀甲柄は人気が無く、小売店は仕入れないし、特殊珍柄は高過ぎて仕入れられません。市場や店には、売る方も買う方も丁度いいのがないのです。
この珍品大島には、大久保絣の織口名がありますが、実際はツガ十絣織の珍色です。地糸(黒)ツガ柄(金茶)十の字(青緑)の色使いです。反巾1尺1寸 1疋24.5m 1反売りも可能。


2014年8月30日(Saturday)

別染色無地着尺 男物巾広

Filed under:
- masa @ 09時38分05秒

南久の浜ちりめん、変わり三越生地の巾広に好きな色を別染して、男性用の色紋付や羽織り等に仕立ます。反巾が1尺5分(40cm)の3丈物770gの高級生地は、着易く羽織にしてもしなやかです。最近は男性でも、着物と羽織りを対で誂える方が減り、織の着物に、染めの羽織でコーディネイトする方が増えています。


南久の中でも上等のブランド、松光3号、変り三越織は高級染着物に使用されます。
無地染にも、手間が掛る刷毛引き染や、簡単な焚き染などで染代金が違ってきます。


2014年8月7日(Thursday)

座繰糸 夏着尺

Filed under:
- masa @ 09時36分50秒

座繰糸で織った、夏着尺です。肌触りが気持ちよく着易いです。反巾1尺5分ありますので、男物としても仕立てられます。夏の絹物でも手頃の割りに恰好良く高級感があります。6:4で織柄分けしています。


2014年8月3日(Sunday)

泥染杢糸織 縞大島

Filed under:
- masa @ 10時52分08秒

泥染の杢糸を使用した、力織機織りの縞大島です。杢糸(別染めした糸を2本合せ)に、緩く撚りを掛けステッチ状の縞を出して、絣っぽい格子に織っています。泥染め糸は化染に比べてテカリが少なく、落ち着いた底光りがして、仕立上がったら手織絣物と見分けがつかないほどに見栄えがします。珍しい小格子柄は大島通の方でも気を引きます。女性用にでも、男の単衣などにもいいです。広幅で1尺5分以上。1反売りも可能。


格子より細絣のように見えます。

純泥染杢糸を使用して力織機織した大小の縦縞柄大島です。国産の糸を自社製糸していますので、既製品糸で織ったパサパサの縞大島とは質が違います。緯糸にも杢糸を織り込み独特の風合いです。シンプルな柄は幅広い着こなしが出来て、男女共に粋に着れます。反巾1尺7分、裄は2尺まで仕立可能です。


2014年6月9日(Monday)

諸紙布の角帯

Filed under:
- masa @ 10時27分01秒

小千谷で織られた、諸紙布(経緯共に楮和紙を細く裁断して小撚り糸にした後柿渋染した)角帯です。柿渋染は糸が強くなり、水を通し難く、空気を通す特徴があります。諸紙布織だけはオールシーズン使用できると言われていますし、締め心地が最高なので角帯の中でもプロ好みの逸品です。紙布糸作りも一年以上掛かり、制作数も少なく高額なので、入手しにくい幻の帯になっています。出た時が手に入れるラストチャンスです。反巾19cmでリーバーシブル柄になるように織って、半分に折り総耳カガリ仕立をしています。425cm、巾9.5cm


2014年3月28日(Friday)

本場黄八丈 角帯

Filed under:
- masa @ 09時50分13秒

本場黄八丈の、草木染・手織濃いコゲ茶色の角帯です。本場黄八丈の高級さは、皆さんご存知ですので、その角帯も価値があります。特に無地は少ないので人気があります。現在制作の殆どが一枚織りですが、結構締め心地は良いです。巾2寸6分(10cm)長さ4.3m


2014年3月11日(Tuesday)

男物無地長襦袢

Filed under:
- masa @ 10時29分11秒

男物の襦袢を作る時に、昔の様な虎や鷹、山水柄などの柄物を嫌う方が多くなり、シンプルな柄や、無地物を探す方が増えています。無地は反物巾の生地にはありますが、絵羽用の広巾生地には殆どありません。最初から柄付けを行う前提で制作しているからです。この絵羽生地の長襦袢は地染をしただけの無地です。染メーカーが柄付けする前の物を入手しています。市場に出無い珍品です。ブルーとモスグリーン。


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染織工芸 正ヤ
電話番号:082-209-0017
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